THE WINE. This is a busy time of year in Valpolicella

Amarone,
like a great jazz singer

In the height of winter, the freezing temperatures in northern Italy bring wine production to a halt. However, there is one wine region that doesn't get to hibernate this season. In Valpolicella, the months of January and February signify fermentation time. Located in the province of Verona, Valpolicella, from “val-polis-celle” or valley of many cellars, has been long known for its wine production. Amarone della Valpolicella, the most widely-recognized wine of the region, is made from corvine, corvione, molinara and rondinella grapes, all native Italian varietals. After harvest, the grapes are then spread across straw mats called “arèle” and left to dry. During this phase, the grapes loose 30 to 40% of their weight, causing the concentration of natural sugars. A high sugar level is indispensable for achieving 15-16% alcohol level during fermentation and maintaining the same level of acidity. The grapes are then stemmed, to eliminate bitter tannins, and pressed. Prior to fermentation, yeasts must be carefully selected to be able to stand up to the high alcohol level and the cold of winter. The fermentation period generally lasts two months, while maturation can vary between one to six years. The choice of barrel greatly influences the character of the wine: barriques give Amarone more spiced aromas, while large Slavonian casks produce sweeter sensations. During a recent blind tasting of a 2003 Amarone Riserva, the color of the wine was so dark ruby red that it was almost impenetrable. The perfumes recalled cherry, sour black cherry, dark berries preserved in spirits, wilted rose, cinnamon, vanilla, rhubarb, anise and licorice. In the mouth, the wine is warm, soft, welcoming and well balanced thanks to the tannins and an unexpected freshness. The wine has a remarkably long finish that goes of for several minutes. It has all the right notes to be drunk in the company of an equally as strong and multifaceted voice, like that of Ray Charles or Aretha Franklin.