THE TASTE OF TRADITION: Carnival fritters

Mamma Rita’s secret
is in the fryer

The smell of sugar is in the air. Sweet Italian fritters, frittelle and crostoli (also known as chiacchiere and bugie depending on which region you are in), announce the arrival of the Carnival season. These sweets represent the essence of the long weeks leading up to Lent. The most famous Carnival festival in the world is in Venice, just a few kilometers from our restaurant. During the age of La Serenissima, Carnival was the most awaited time of year for the Venetians who would celebrate by organizing events and balls in the piazzas, or campi, of Venice. The dancing generally started in the Corte del Fondaco dei Turchi and then spread to many other parts of the city like piazza San Marco, riva degli Schiavoni and beyond. During this time of year, the city became one large stage for performances and parties of all kinds, for Venetians and foreigners alike.

But let's get back to the sweets. In Venice, the fritola (fritter) was extremely widespread during La Serenissima. The people who would fry and sell the fritters were known as fritoleri. In the pastry kitchen at Calandrino, we are carrying on this tradition by making Carnival sweets with natural yeasts. In addition to the classics - fruit fritters made with apple or pineapple or filled with cream or zabaione - crostoli, ribbons of fried dough dusted with sugar - will also line the pastry counter at Il Calandrino. “The recipe we use,” says Rita Alajmo “is the same one my mother used. After many tests, I codified the recipe so that we get consistent results in the pastry kitchen.” The secret? A few good ingredients and olive oil for frying, which gives the fritters their delicate flavor and unparalleled crispiness.  And to top it all off, a sprinkle of granulated sugar because powdered sugar can cause the dough to get soggy. For a taste of the sweet life, visit the pastry shop inside Il Calandrino, open Tuesday to Saturday from 8 am to 9 pm and Sunday from 8 am to 8 pm.

“Pasticceria Il Calandrino” - Via Liguria 1 - 35030 Sarmeola di Rubano (PD)  - tel. 049 630303 or calandrino@alajmo.it